Monday, November 24, 2008

Election Results...It's a Mudslide!

No, this is not the continuation of the Angel Falls epic. You are going to have to be patient. I thought I would try more frequent, but shorter, posts. I think the scope of some of the previous posts was intimidating. Some were getting pretty involved.


Venezuela held its mid-term elections yesterday (Sunday). This election cycle was for governors of the states, and mayors of municipal districts. Venezuela is divided into 23 States plus the Federal District of Caracas. Each (except Caracas) has a governor. There are also 335 municipal districts. These were all up for election. Politics is an interesting and colorful process here. Leading up the the election thousands of signs are posted all over the country advertising the various candidates. All of the signs are color coded with the party's color. PSUV (Partido Socialista Unido de Venezuela) which is Chavez's party, is red. How surprising, right? Other parties are yellow, blue, purple, green...about the only color not used is white. So when you look at a sign and see the photo of the candidate in a yellow shirt you know his or her party. Venezuelans love political parades and send long processions of vehicles festooned with the party's colors all over the city. These parades usually feature at least two flat bed trucks with loud speaker systems. One is blaring salsa music, the other is blaring political slogans. These processions of as many as 50 cars at a time are all over the city tying up traffic. It is a bad idea to interrupt one of the parades. It is best to let it go and follow behind, but not close enough to appear to be in the parade. The other thing about politics here is that it is often a contact sport. The winners often have a big demonstration, where they are met by the losing party supporters and rioting ensues. I have not heard of any of this happening during this election cycle, but we were warned to be aware of the possibility. Venezuela closes down for elections. Sales of alcoholic beverages were cutoff at 2:00 pm on Friday. No alcohol could be sold anywhere in Venezuela preceding the election. Chavez wants sober voters, I guess. Schools closed down last Wednesday and will be closed until tomorrow. All businesses were closed on Sunday. They are very serious about elections here.

Chavez's party won 17 of the state governor elections, but opposition parties won the other governor races, picking up about 4 new spots. Notably, opposition party candidates won in the most populous areas. Also, an opposition candidate won the race for mayor of Caracas. Chavez is still firmly in control and his party still has an overwhelming majority, but this election continues the downward slide. He cannot characterize this election as a mandate from the people when his party lost the most populous areas and the Federal District. On the other hand, The opposition did not ring up a resounding victory either. But, as with everything here, poco a poco (little by little.)

The other big recent event was the mudslides. We had about a week of rain, capped off by a real gully washer Thursday night that literally brought down the hillsides here in Caracas and the surrounding areas. Mary and I left the embassy about 5:30 pm and I am glad we did. I was supposed to have band practice Thursday night and would have been there after hours, which would have been very bad because some time around 6:00 pm there was a large mudslide above the embassy that completely blocked the road to our apartment, and another below the embassy that cut off the alternate route. Embassy personnel still at the embassy at 6:00 were stuck there until almost midnight, and some didn't get home until well after 2:00 am. As we drove home there was literally a river of muddy water racing down the steep streets. It was like driving a boat over a lake the way the water sprayed around the cars including ours. We found out later that hillsides all over Caracas had collapsed. A few buildings came down, a few lives were lost, but in terms of third world disasters it did not even register as a blip on the radar screen. Mostly it messed up traffic. The main autopista through our part of town was buried in mud, as were many streets. By the next day however, most of the streets had been cleared somewhat, enough to get to work.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Angel Falls: Introduction

This is the long overdue report about my thrilling visit to Angel Falls, the highest water fall in the world. I am breaking this up into multiple posts (1) to spread out the fun and (2) because the download times for photos over my lame “high speed” internet connection is quite long.

To prepare you for this adventure, I have put together some background information that you might find interesting. Here are links about Angel Falls:



Canaima and Angel Falls
Venezuela Tuya – Angel Falls
Google Map Auyan Tepui and Angel Falls



Here are some maps to get oriented ("waterfall" in Spanish is "salto" thus Salto Angel)






































Angel Falls is located in Parque National Canaima. It was discovered by Jimmy Angel. It is located on a Tepui (sometimes spelled “tepuy”) called Auyan Tepui. Tepuis are table top mountains, much like the mesas of the Southwest U.S., only much larger.

My good friend, Greg Weiss, joined me on this trip. The night before we set out I picked up Greg at the Caracas Airport. Of course his flight was about two hours late and it took him over an hour to get through customs so we got home from the airport after midnight. As an interesting side note, the trip home from the airport requires passing through one of the worst areas in Caracas, called 23 de Enero (23 of January). It is common for thieves to setup roadblocks on the autopista to rob people. I was a little nervous, driving a BMW and all, but the trip home from the airport was quite uneventful. Our journey the next morning was to begin at about 5:00 am, and I wondered if it was even worth the effort to leave and return to the airport. Obviously we had to go pick up my luggage at home so that was not really an option. We were going to be operating on very little sleep.

The travel agency we used was Akanan Travel. This was our itinerary:

Day 1: Fly to Puerto Ordaz, drive to Ciudad Bolivar and spend the day touring Ciudad Bolivar.
Day 2: Fly from Ciudad Bolivar to Kavak deep in the Gran Sabana on the southern side of Auyan Tepui.
Day 3: Travel by boat on the Rio Akanan to campsite 1
Day 4: Travel by boat on the Rio Carrao to campsite 2
Day 5: Travel by boat on the Rio Churun to campsite 3 at the base of Angel Falls
Day 6: Travel by Boat to Canaima and fly to Ciudad Bolivar, drive to Puerto Ordaz and then to Caracas

I will begin the journey with the next post. Today just sets the stage.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Big Post Comming...Stay Tuned

Hola Amigos! I know it's been a long time since I rapped at ya, but I got a lot on my plate these days (Are there any "Onion" readers out there? Jim Anchower?) I have been really busy. Seriously. Full time work, being a rock star, traveling, parties, happy hours, diving...there just is not enough time in a day. Since my last post I have been diving several more times at Chichiriviche, got my PADI Advanced Scuba Diver Certification, started working on my PADI Rescue Diver Certification (course work is complete, I just have to finish the in-water training) went on several wreck dives in Puerto Cabello (road trip!), our band,The Blueberry Jam (I did not choose the name), played two more gigs (another happy hour and at the Marine House Halloween Party in front of a very lively crowd of about 400). I went to see R.E. M. and Travis at an outdoor music festival at Universidad Simon Bolivar (a beautiful campus nestled high in the mountains surrounded by pine trees full of parrots and macaws), hosted a dinner attended by the charge d' affairs, went scuba diving in Parque National Mochima (another road trip!), took the Foreign Service Exam, hung out at a rehearsal with some guys in a Venezuelan band that I met, started taking Spanish classes again, and got a new job (I am going to be the new Community Liaison Officer...yeah! no more fingerprinting).
But...the Angel Falls post is almost finished. To set the stage I am recycling something I put together for the embassy newsletter back when I was the editor. The following article is about the origin of the word "Canaima". Angel Falls is located in Parque National Canaima, so this will serve as a bit of background on the subject.

Canaima

To the Pemon Indians of the Gran Sabana, “Canaima” is the name of an evil spirit which lurks in wait for them in the dense forest. Canaima, the Indians say, takes many forms. He is a jaguar in the forest, or a spirit who passes through their huts at night. Every mishap that ends in cuts and bruises is laid at his door. Canaima is the poisonous snake in the underbrush, or the sharp branch that catches them in the eye. According to Venezuelan writer Jose Berti, the Pemon, "like most pre-Colombian tribes don't believe in a natural death; and in order to explain their eternal disappearance from this world, they have created a symbolic character, Canaima, who pursues them without rest and who in the end defeats and kills them. If an Indian suffers from pneumonia, they say that Canaima has blown on his chest, if he has a stomach ache, it is put down to the evil work of Canaima, so that Canaima, or Death, is his implacable and eternal enemy."


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